DINING: Funeral for the cork

By CARLA TRACY, Dining Editor

The group gathered to lay all of their preconceived notions to rest. Some dressed in black. Others donned traditional aloha attire. They came to pay respects. Yet, the mood in the room was anything but somber.

The Funeral for the Cork, the first such event of its kind in the state of Hawaii, was presented by Alan Jahns of JMD Beverages, and Marc Aurel, co-owner of Cafe Marc Aurel, at his fun and irreverent wine and espresso bar on Market Street in Wailuku.

In reality, the Funeral for the Cork was a to-die-for tasting of six fine wines with screwcaps. Attendees sipped, listened to Jahns and munched bread. Many ordered off the Euro menu.

"I’m not claiming originality on this one," says Jahns, a wine expert who holds themed tastings there a couple of times a month. "Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards held a huge funeral in New York City when he went to 100 percent screwcaps on all his wines in 2002. At the time, he was producing over 250,000 bottles a year."

A quick search on the Internet found numerous relevant sites. "Twist of Fate" said that Grahm led a funeral procession through Grand Central Station complete with pall bearers carrying the tuxedoed "body" of Mr. Cork.

It was a 6-feet-under publicity stunt – an ode to the cork method of stopping up wine bottles that’s at least 421 years old and may well date back to the ancient Egyptians.

But why put the nail in the coffin of the cork when it’s stopped up wines so well for so many centuries?

"We are the last industry forced to use tree bark, more commonly known as cork, as a closure for our liquids," says Jahns. "Unfortunately, one of out 10 bottles are contaminated by bad corks, unneccesarily ruining our wine-drinking experience. Companies in the beer and soda industry would never, ever put up with that big of a percentage of loss."

So in comes Mr. Stelvin, a real person (unlike Mr. Cork), who actually invented the screwcap for wine bottles in the 1960s. That’s why these particular screwcaps are also known as the "Stelvin Closure" by the wine industry.

While the screwcap has been in vogue on sparkling waters, juices and spirits for decades, its presence on wine bottles is still controversial.

"It’s all about image. That’s the only downside," says Jahns. "Most of us drank cheap wines with screwcaps in the back seat of our cars. It’s still associated with cheap wines and the wine trade still has an irrational loyalty to corks."

With time, more high-end wineries are switching to Stelvin Closures as they do keep oxygen out and the wine tasting fine. It’s so "reverse chic."

"Cork taint is such a big issue it’s no wonder the industry is looking to other methods," says Jahns.

"During this tasting, we’ll examine the perceived value issues surrounding the wine bottle closure debate and offer you very high quality and expensive wines with (ahem) screwcaps."

But just what is cork taint, anyway?

According to the take-home literature provided by Jahns, "cork taint imparts a musty/moldy off flavor in wine and is considered a defect."

"In practical terms, it’s the biggest peril bottled wine buyers face," says Jahns. "It strikes sporadically, randomly and often very ferociously. No wine, regardless of its pedigree or high price, is immune from cork taint."

In fact, cork taint is why countries such as New Zealand, famous for its sauvignon blancs, are leaders in the screwcap wine industry.

"Unfortunately, most studies have just been done on white wines, and so we do not know how well these screwcap wines will age," eulogizes Jahns."Yet, how many of us here are actually laying down our wines in cellars? Most of us in today’s market are into wines simply for immediate gratification."

As Jahns chatted with wine enthusiasts at the long table, he poured screwcap wines into fine Riedel crystal glasses that are a staple at Cafe Marc Aurel. Guests swirled and sipped and marveled in the clean tastes.

The first wine was a Babich sauvignon blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand, rated 90 points by Wine Spectator magazine.

"We’re doing a power tasting on these wines," says Jahns. "This one boasts pink grapefruit and ripping acidity. It makes the hair on the back of your neck stand at attention. No oak."

Next up was a white Bordeaux from France, followed by a German Riesling from Gunderloch Rothenberg.

"Germany, like France, has her hands tied by tradition. But Fritz Hasselbach, (the riesling producer) believes in the bucking of tradition."

As the wines continued to flow, the group began to crucify the cork with their gallows humor. They were having fun getting "twisted" on the selection of fine screwcap wines.

"Put a cork in it!" someone squealed. "Should I sing ’Amazing Grace?’ " asked another. "I’ll never pay corkage as long as I live!" shouted a third.

The next "funeral" is Wednesday and wine geeks and cork dorks alike will want to come. "We do tastings, not funerals, two times a month at Cafe Marc Aurel," says Jahns. "But the themes are generally not set in stone."

? VISITATION: The next Funeral For the Cork will be held Wednesday at 6:30 p.m. in Cafe Marc Aurel in Wailuku.

? ATTIRE: Dress in black or aloha wear.

? HOW MUCH: Cost of $48 offers five screwcap wines, one with a cork, and bread.

? TO BOOK: Call 280-2508