Churrascaria: Brazil meets Maui

DUO Steak & Seafood at Four Seasons sizzles with new tastes on Market Night

Executive Chef Craig Dryhurst is the mastermind. The Maui News / CARLA TRACY photos

It’s hot, hot, hot and tasty, too. The new Market Night Hawaiian Churrascaria, based on the Brazilian concept of meat brought to your table and served in front of you, now sizzles at DUO Steak & Seafood at the Four Seasons Resort Maui in Wailea on Fridays.

Meats keep coming to your table, one after another. The aromas are intoxicating and the sight of grilled huli-huli pork ribs and tender chicken wrapped in crispy bacon glazed with jalapeno jam is hard to pass up when paraded right in front of you by servers with loaded metal skewers who want to cater to your every dining whim.

But the parade doesn’t stop there. Australian lamb chops are seasoned with Kula lavender and sea salt. Top sirloin of beef Picanha is rubbed with DUO spices, slow cooked and carved in front of you. Maui Gold pineapples are laced with brown sugar and cinnamon and grilled.

“We’re also bringing in sausages from Uli’s at Pike Place Market in Seattle,” says Executive Chef Craig Dryhurst. “They make bratwurst, kielbasa, lamb sausages and English bangers for us. We brush them with house honey-mustard and grill them here.”

The Hawaiian Churrascaria is an all-you-can-eat affair and “you end up getting quite a lot of food at the end of it,” Dryhurst explains.

The seafood tower may complement the grilled meats (third photo), which is served as an all-you-can eat affair.

“Normally, we place the grill down by the pool deck in view of diners,” the chef continues. “It’s quite spectacular, a triple-decker rotisserie on wheels. The concept is based on Fogo de Chao restaurants.”

The fine-dining franchise has 29 prime locations in the U.S. and nine in Brazil. But Dryhurst says, “We want to do it our way, local style.”

With the meats come DUO’s sauce Choron, a tomato Bearnaise par excellence; and flavorful house barbecue sauce and chimichurri.

The feast also includes the Market Table of fresh salads, where you roam to pile your plates with cherry tomatoes and baby mozzarella; coffee-roasted red beets with mac nuts and vanilla dressing; grilled vegetables with pine nuts, herb pesto and goat cheese; hearts of palm with papaya, avocado and shrimp; and other local seasonal produce with a nice array of vinaigrettes and toppings.

“Naturally we offer hot sides as well,” says Dryhurst. “We bring you Brazilian cheese bread; Aligot potato that is a French street fondue-like food with Gruyere, garlic confit and creme fraiche; and Brussels sprouts with sherry vinegar and macerated fruits.

As if that wasn’t enough, the Four Seasons also features an a la carte seafood tower for one- to-two people and for three- to-four people.

“I’ve wanted to do a seafood tower forever and I found these perfect double-walled, hammerhead-steel platters that we put oysters, poached shrimp and snow crab on over ice and it doesn’t melt,” says Dryhurst.

“The seafood is similar to what we serve at the Raw Bar here on Tuesday nights. For the oysters we have mignonette sauce and for the pokes and ceviches we have tortilla chips and sweet-potato and taro-root chips.”

Savor salmon poke with maple-soy sauce, green onions and apples; spicy-ahi poke with kimchi aioli; mahimahi and shrimp ceviche with tequila and coconut milk; and carrot gazpacho shooter with dungeness crab.

“On the seafood platter we also put wedges of lemons, limes and calamansi all from our garden here at the resort,” he continues.

Listen to live music on Fridays with Brian Santana and sip an a la carte signature drink such as the Wailea Caipirinha with resort-grown citrus, sugarcane juice and Cachaca, served in colorful terra cotta cups. The wine list is top notch and sommeliers are in house.

“The live music drives an amazing energy into the room,” concludes Dryhurst. “Kids can be entertained at the Kids for All Seasons area as parents enjoy a nice glass of wine. You may top it all off with a la carte desserts like Maui Kula strawberry Pavlova and our Pastry Chef Bruce Trouyet’s chocolate souffle with banana ice cream and lilikoi caramel. It’s all about families getting together and sharing food and having a wonderful time.”

* Market Night: The Hawaiian Churrascaria is served from 5:30 to 9:00 p.m. Fridays at DUO Steak & Seafood. Cost is $67 per person, plus tax and gratuity. The seafood towers, desserts and beverages are a la carte. Call 874-8000.