Once Japan’s capital city, Kyoto is loved by many
Editor’s note: Jon Woodhouse, who writes regular arts and entertainment articles for The Maui News, is currently traveling in Japan and writing about his journey along the way.
Japan’s capital city for more than 1,000 years, Kyoto almost disappeared near the close of World War II. Home to 2,000 majestic temples and shrines, it was one of the targets for the atomic bomb until Henry L. Stimson, the U.S. Secretary of War in 1945, suggested an alternative. He felt it was too culturally significant to destroy.
Famed for its cultural treasures, in Kyoto you can step from a bustling 21st century city street into ancient grounds stretching back hundreds of years. With only a few days and an overwhelming number of significant places one could visit, where do you go?
Like many vacation hotspots, Kyoto has become a victim of what the Japanese have termed “tourism pollution.” With an average of 50 million annually exploring the city, tourists, dubbed geisha paparazzi, had to be banned from the Gion district of Kyoto because too many kimono-wearing women were being harassed for selfies, and one-day passes were suspended to discourage non-residents using buses.
To avoid the crowds that swarm even in November at popular destinations, I chose to explore some of the more obscure, lesser known sites like the hidden gem of Shoden-ji Temple in the north of Kyoto, which was David Bowie’s favorite. A picturesque Rinzai Zen temple, the British rock legend reportedly cried when he first encountered its beautiful karesansui rock garden, which dates back to the 16th century. It’s so rewarding to spend time in quiet contemplation in this serene haven with a view of Mt. Hiei, the home of Shinto gods, in the far distance.
Well off the beaten path I discovered another tranquil setting in the mountains above Kyoto with a musician connection. Driving with friends up into the hills on narrow, winding roads you eventually reach the Shimyoin Temple, which was visited by members of Pink Floyd back in the 1970s. Legend tells that it was founded by Japanese mystic Ennogyoja in 650, and it is said to be a magical place, a dwelling for shamen healers for hundreds of years. This other-worldly setting inspired the famous animated film Princess Mononoke.
Remote Shimyoin Temple, temizuya cleansing ritual to wash hands and mouth before entering. For the Maui News/Jon Woodhouse photo
North of Kyoto, in the rural town of Ohara, the vast complex of Sanzen-in Monzeki temple offers a wonder of delights including spectacular garden scenes with streams, ponds, waterfalls, banks of vibrant green moss and maple trees turning red. A national treasure, it was founded in 804, and highlights include a large stone 14th century Buddha, an extraordinary colorful ceiling depicting the land of perfect bliss, and a bunch of Warabe-Jizos, mini laughing Buddhas dotted throughout the gardens. I even discovered a cherry tree with a few sakura blossoms.
My final Kyoto day was devoted to the magnificent Ginkaku-ji Temple. Comprising the famous Silver Pavilion built for a shogun, a handful of other temple buildings, a sublime moss garden and a unique rock garden, its beauty takes your breath away. Renowned artist Soami designed the landscape embodying the aesthetic of wabi-sabi, beauty in simplicity and imperfection. The “Sea of Silver Sand” garden features a towering sand cone representing Mount Fuji.
Just down from the temple you can stroll the scenic Philosopher’s Path that winds along a canal. In spring this milelong paved walkway is lined with 500 cherry trees in full bloom, with branches creating a “tunnel” of white and pink blossoms.
With its rich history, culture and exquisite gardens, it’s no wonder Kyoto is loved by so many. The famous 17th century Japanese poet Matsuo Basho captured his affection for the imperial city in a haiku — “In Kyoto, hearing the cuckoo, I long for Kyoto.”
Ginkaku-ji Temple Silver Pavilion, former Shogun home. For the Maui News/Jon Woodhouse photo