Columns

The grandeur of Italy’s Dolomites

Editor's note: Jon Woodhouse, who writes regular arts and entertainment articles for The Maui News, is currently traveling in Europe and writing about his journey along the way.

The Dolomites have been called one of Italy's most spectacular beauty spots. “Not mountains, these pale spires, but souls of mountains, stiffened in the shape of their desire to ascend," wrote Italian poet Antonia Pozzi in 1929.

With breathtaking vistas, beauty abounds from vertical mountain peaks, turquoise lakes, endless forests and miles of hiking trails to charming Alpine towns, centuries old churches, green meadows awash with wild flowers and the tinkling of cow bells in fields.

Taking the express train from Berlin, you soon encounter the hills of Bavaria, and after Munich, the Alps begin to loom on the horizon. One of the most visually rewarding routes in Europe, by Innsbruck, the scenery becomes even more dramatic as the train snakes along river valleys and past snow-capped peaks and postcard villages. The final descent into South Tyrol feels like you have entered a magical land.

Once alighted in Bolzano, you encounter a delightful small city of picturesque squares, narrow alleys, colorful shopping arcades, elegant cafes and a bustling outdoor fruit and vegetable market that was founded in 1295. With German and Italian both spoken, travel writer Rick Steves described the town as a place where "Austria meets Italy." Ranked third in a survey of Italian towns with the best quality of life, it's also the nation's most expensive.

Known as the Gateway to the Dolomites, it's surrounded by mountains, where you find the quaint town of Mendola. A famous Alpine resort in the 19th century, it attracted Austria's Empress Sisi and Mahatma Gandhi. Close by is the legendary Mendola Funicular, the steepest and longest cable car in Europe with a 64% incline, that takes 12 minutes to travel from top to the valley below.

North of Bolzano lies the natural hot springs spa of Terme Merano. Merano became famous in the 19th century as a health resort for European nobility. The Terme uses thermal water sourced from Monte San Vigilio, known for its healing properties, attributed to its radon content, mineral salt, and unique combination of gases and metals. With 25 indoor and outdoor pools, there are brine baths and cold plunges, and a Bio Nature Pool that eliminates the need for chemical treatment.

A popular destination for wellness and therapeutic thermal treatments, terme are plentiful in the region. Nestled in a valley surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks, Terme Dolomia in the town of San Giovanni di Fassi is unique. The only sulphur spring in the Trentino region, it’s renowned for its healing properties and tranquil environment.

Spending a week in the Dolomites, there are numerous scenic wonders to relish. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it extends over three regions and five provinces.

Part of Three Peaks Nature Park protected in a state of pristine beauty, Lago di Landro is one of the region's most enchanting lakes, with turquoise water and glorious mountain views.

One of the most picturesque lakes, the emerald green Lago di Carezza in Val d'Ega, known as the Lake of Rainbows in ancient Ladin language, is surrounded by dense coniferous forests and some of the most dramatic peaks in the Dolomites. Mist often hangs over the lake in the morning, creating an ethereal mood. Ancient folklore suggests it was once home to a mermaid who bewitched a local wizard, and was gifted with a rainbow.

For the gourmet, the region offers a culinary crossroads of Italian, Austrian and Ladin traditions with unique foods such as Schuttelbrot rye flatbread seasoned with caraway and fennel, Canederli dumplings, and Schlutzkrapfen ravioli filled with a mix of spinach, cheese, and herbs. Also celebrated for its delicious Alpine cheeses, traditional Asiago PDO cheese dates back 1,000 years. And those with a sweet tooth can enjoy various Alpine wildflower honeys, including renowned Dolomiti Bellunisi Honey.