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Oh, Wow! Let’s go to a Lu‘au

Educating guests about Polynesian culture, history, cuisine on front burner

By Carla Tracy 8 min read

The sensual swaying of hips, free-flowing mai tais, bountiful buffets, mesmerizing beat of drums, fire-knife dancers, arts and crafts and nonstop entertainment are all part of the lu'au draw.

You will also be treated to heaping helpings of narratives on Polynesian culture and history. Planners take these topics seriously, and want to educate first-time guests and kamaaina alike. Here are some island picks.

Old Lahaina Lu'au

"Old Lahaina Lu'au has reinvented itself authentically in a genre rife with cliche," says the New York Times Travel section. "At sunset, guests sit at tables or on lauhala fiber mats on the ground in front of a grass-mound stage. The program offers intelligent narration and excellent ancient hula. The food is authentic Hawaiian, and delicious."

Located right on the ocean on Front Street in West Maui's famous town, Old Lahaina Lu'au will transport you into the heart of old Hawaii with thatched-roof huts and village ambience. Year after year, it consistently wins the "Best Lu'au on Maui" award in the Best of Maui poll in The Maui News.

"With an award-winning show and a spread to make even the mightiest ali'i quiver, it's clear why you voted Old Lahaina Lu'au as one of the best," says Hawaii magazine.

Yes, Old Lahaina Lu'au dances the hula past other contenders. Guests relax under coconut palms with steller views of boats and Neighbor Islands before the sun turns hues from lemon yellow to mango to blood orange, then dips into the ocean. Tiki torches then light the way to an authentic evening of traditional Hawaiian food, music, dance and crafts.

"Authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui's top lu'au -- and its staff, location, educational acuity and quality of the food and entertainment make it a lu'au to which visitors return time and time again," states Frommers Guide.

Be greeted with a fresh flower lei, tropical drink and a personalized souvenir program and then you may chat with photographers for an optional picture or two.

"During the first hour, guests can learn about our fascinating Hawaiian history and culture in our laulima (working together) area along the ocean's edge," says Kawika Freitas, director of public and cultural relations.

"Guests may also gather as the kalua pig is unearthed from an imu, a traditional Hawaiian underground oven," he adds.

"The lu'au feast and traditional entertainment both serve as a wonderful introduction to real island culture, and they're both terrific. Don't mistake this for a deadly dull history lesson -- its riveting entertainment, and the performers are first-rate," says the Complete Idiot's Travel Guide to Hawaii

Hosts escort guests to the Hale 'Ai, or eating house. Sweet potatoes, taro and other roasted assorted vegetables are grown on the company's Hoaloha Farm in Waikapu. Maui fish, vegan and gluten-free options, an array of meats and poultry are also served. Foods are labeled so you know what you're eating.

Coming up Jan. 26 will be the annual Buy Back The Beach benefit for Hawaiian Islands Land Trust with live entertainment by The Old Lahaina Luau team and Gretchen Rhodes, live and silent auctions with highly exclusive items curated specifically for HILT, and ono cuisine from local farmers, ranchers and fishermen of the islands. Alas, it is already sold out --but Old Lahaina Lu'au is open seven nights a week all year long. Start times vary depending on when the sun sets and the season. Right now, it transpires from 5:15 to 8:15 p.m. Advance reservations are required. For more details, call 667-1998.

Drums of the Pacific

The longest running luau show on Maui, Drums of the Pacific is a cultural highlight at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa in Ka'anapali Resort.

"The food served at Drums of the Pacific lu'au is from yesteryear," says Executive Chef Greg Grohowski. "We slow cook the pig in our imu underground oven daily. We also serve ahi poke, lomilomi salmon, squid luau (but it is vegetarian style), and we have fried rice, Molokai sweet potatoes, haupia and pineapple upside down cake. Our luau is gluten-free, with exception of the poi rolls and a couple of the desserts."

"Since opening in 1980, the luau has entertained more than two million visitors who are treated well, fed well and welcomed with songs and dances," says Klara Crocco, Hyatt director of marketing and communications.

Drums of the Pacific takes you all over, from Raratonga to Tahiti to New Zealand. It also moves in time from the ancient dance forms to the modern versions. The grand finale is not one, but three fire-knife dancers.

Executive Chef Grohowski is especially proud of his imu ceremony.

Performers in native attire carry a perfectly roasted pig down the center aisle for all guests to see.

"It's a photo opportunity, but the process truly starts in the pre-dawn dark hours of the moonlit mornings," he continues. "Our Polynesian imu specialist prepares the ceremonial puaa daily, and the whole preparation time to get the puaa in the ground to start cooking takes three to four hours."

He first recovers at least 20 large lava rocks, then gathers kiawe wood for the fire and banana stumps to help create steam. It takes two hours to get the rocks hot enough, at least 1,000 degrees. Netting is placed on top of the puaa, followed by water soaked burlap bags and sand. The cooking time is six to eight hours.

"Our Polynesian dancers start their preparation around 5 p.m. for the unveiling of the puaa, which starts with a chant and the blowing of the conch shell. It's then paraded through the audience so they can see it up close."

Other highlights of Drums of the Pacific are a wedding hula, a sensual and romantic dance paying tribute to those lovers in the audience who are celebrating honeymoons and anniversaries. Kahiko, or ancient Hawaiian hula, sings the praises of the area that spans from Hanakao'o, or Canoe Beach, next to Hyatt all the way to Kapalua, where Nailima, a young sister calls upon the owl guardian, the spirit Wahine Pe'e to save her brother.

For Drums of the Pacific reservations, call 667-4727.

Grand Luau at Honua'ula

In South Maui, the grandest lu'au of them all is the Grand Luau at Honua'ula that runs several times weekly at the Grand Wailea.

Honua'ula takes you back in time to when the seafaring Polynesians discovered the Hawaiian islands.

It touches upon voyages of La'amaikahiki and Moikeha who were documented as the first to come to Honua'ula, where the luau is held. The riveting program highlights Pele, the goddess of fire and how she paved the way with lava so there would be land sufficient for the Hawaiian people to live. Lilinoe, the goddess of the mist, was said to linger above sending cool rains to nourish the land, and she is depicted in song and dance.

So is the mermaid of Maui, Kananaka, who swam near surfers and tried to capture them for fun; and the legend of Naulu, the goddess of the clouds. These ancient stories combine for an exciting night of traditional chant and hula bringing the history of Maui to vivid life.

"Upon entry, guests receive a lei greeting and are offered a choice of a Mai Tai or Blue Hawaiian cocktail for adults or Luau Punch for the keiki," says Chelsea Livit, director of public relations.

Pre-show cultural activities include ukulele lessons, lei making, Polynesian tattoos, Ulu Maika (Hawaiian lawn bowling), hula lessons and lauhala weaving.

Executive Chef Ryan Urig and his team delight guests with baked Molokai sweet potatoes in guava syrup and mac-nut butter, kalua pig hot from the imu, farm-raised steaks with teriyaki sauce, shoyu chicken and mac-nut mahimahi in young coconut and kaffir lime sauce. Island desserts take it over the top as does the open bar and the fire dancers at the end of the luau extravaganza.

For tickets or more details, call 875-7710.

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Lu'au Lingo

• Kahiko: Ancient hula was a way to communicate with the gods through chant, dance.

• Auana: Modern hula influenced by immigrants as well as tourism.

• Oli: Chant.

• Mele: Song.

• Imu: An earthen oven dug to cook Hawaiian foods in the ground.

• Puaa kalua: Pig roasted in an imu for hours.

• Kalo: The taro plant is the eldest brother of Hawaii, according to lore.

• Poi: A pounded paste made from taro root.

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