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Old haunts of Lahaina

In the aftermath of Lahaina’s fire, Google Earth’s maps and high-resolution satellite images helped us identify destroyed buildings in photos our staffers took.

Studying the photos snapped from orbit was also a way to commune with the town we remembered. In the pictures, Lahaina’s ghosts were solid and alive, cloaked in greenery and rimmed by an aqua blue ocean. Google refreshed its Lahaina satellite photos this month and the new ones are far from soothing. Ghost buildings appear as splatters of gray ash or roofless concrete shells.

In honor of Halloween, a holiday for which Lahaina was a world-famous host, let us visit a few old haunts with a culinary crawl down Front Street circa 1980.

We’ll start in the epicenter of the awakening town with early breakfast at the Pioneer Inn. Where else can you enjoy bacon and eggs as a 750-pound marlin is weighed on the harbor’s nearby scale? It was in front of this historic inn that we watched a local biker respond to a barking dog on Wharf Street by pulling a knife from his boot and giving chase on foot. You should have seen the tourists and dog scatter.

After talking story with the longtime waitress, we head over to Nagasako Super Market to pick up two pounds of marinated aku before it sells out. Nagasako’s quality fish is only matched by its friendly service. Once the aku is on ice, we find artist Captain Kenny Neizman under the banyan tree and peruse the latest masterpieces in his shopping cart. Lahaina’s “Picasso” always has a story to tell.

By then, it is time to stroll over to Hamburger Mary’s. Perhaps Maui’s first gay bar, the little restaurant draws folks of all stripes by serving Lahaina’s best cheeseburger.

For dessert, a short walk delivers us to Ota Mango Stand. Shy Mrs. Ota has just opened in anticipation of the final bell at King Kamehameha III Elementary School. We buy two ripe mangos and find a spot in the shade near enough to Malu Ulu O Lele Park’s tennis courts to hear Shigesh Wakida coach his Lahainaluna tennis team.

For dinner, so many places are worthy of mention, but our most memorable meal came at Longhi’s. This was years after 1980 and had nothing to do with Longhi’s fine Italian food. We were sitting at a streetside table when a pedestrian who just watched the title fight between Evander Holyfield and Mike Tyson felt the need to unburden himself of what he witnessed.

“Tyson bit his ear off,” he exclaimed.

“He did what?”

To top off the night, we return to 1980 and the Blue Max, Front Street’s only bar with a real airplane hanging from the ceiling. Word on the coconut wireless says Jackson Browne and George Benson might sit in with the band.

Lahaina’s ghosts live on through our memories and stories.

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